The biggest surprises of Anatolian Heritage Grapes Conference III/ 09 June 2024

One of very few events for wine sector professionals in Türkiye took place in Istanbul last weekend. Here are my highlights and summary of the event: it was rather surprising!

But first of all I want to thank the organizers - you did an amazing job! 

Event's headliner Jancis Robinson is back to Türkiye after 15 year break!

Jancis Robinson presented wine world trends of 2024 and commented on Turkish wines and the progress they made during last 15 years

After a 15 year break Jancis Robinson was back to Istanbul.

World level wine expert made a great speech about global trends and Turkish wines in this context. After tasting the most recent samples, Jancis also admitted that Türkiye developed their own indigenous styles, not just local replicas of world wine classics as it was the case during her previous visit here.

Jancis Robinson is back to Turkey after 15 year break!

My personal highlight: it was a pleasure to get my copy of The Oxford Companion to Wine signed by the founder-editor. For the last 2.5 years this book has become my favorite companion to DipWSET studies.

Up to 50% of winemakers and wine professionals in Türkiye are female

“Being a Winemaker in Türkiye” panel moderated by Göknur Gündoğan

At the “Being a Winemaker in Türkiye” panel moderated by Göknur Gündoğan featuring winemakers working in different terroirs of Anatolia, the presence of the winemaking profession in Türkiye its diverse approaches, educational paths, and its perception in the international wine world were explored.

A lot of women work in the wine sphere in Türkiye, from villagers in the vineyard up to the founders and winery owners, a lot of female winemakers too.

Maybe because men do not see this sector, with all its difficulties of working with wine in a muslim country, as a perspective enough?

In any case, up to 50% of winemakers and wine professionals in Türkiye are female, and this is a very high percentage compared to other markets. It was great to learn about unique experiences shared by enologist / consultant Semril Zorlu, Kavaklidere's Chief winemaker Sanem Karadeniz, Mey Diageo's Kayra Wines Head Winemaker Özge Kaymaz Özkan and enologist, consultant and Heraki Wines Co-founder Fulya Akıncı Hernandez

Clone selection of indigenous Turkish varieties goes on!

The most surprising presentation: by Prof.Dr. Hüseyin Karataş from Dicle Üniversitesi, Diyarbakır. Together with his wife and project partner Prof. Dr. Dilek Karataş, they work on clone selection for such indigenous Turkish grape varieties as Boğazkere and Öküzgözü.

In their lab there is also a research on local wild vines (Vitis Vinifera SSP. Silvestris) conducted with more results to be reached soon.

The power of respect to the past and family roots will push the wine sector in Türkiye forward despite everything.

Enis Güner Sevilen Wines and Cevza Başman Kavaklıdere are talking about The Role and Contribution of the Third Generation in Wine Production with panel moderator Gözdem Gürbüzatik

Two of the most important things which keep winemaking in Türkiye alive are enthusiastic professionals and traditions of families lasting for a few generations. It was great to listen to the stories and witness the enthusiasm of such wine producers as Sevilen, Kavaklidere, Doluca, Diren represented by recent generations. I am sure that their respect to ancestors, to family history and their own roots will keep the winemaking in Türkiye alive no matter what.

Sibel Kutman Oral, Doluca Wines and Ozan Diren - Diren Wines are talking about The Role and Contribution of the Third Generation in Wine Production with panel moderator Gözdem Gürbüzatik

Sommeliers in Türkiye are responsible for promoting local grapes

Panel on Sommelier Profession in Türkiye with Ayça Çiğdem Budak, IWSA Manager and WSET educator, Şans restaurant owner Niso Adato, Head Sommelier of The Peninsula Hotel Nebiye Kaya, Head Sommelier of Sunset Grill Bar Süleyman Şen and Seray Kumbasar, Wine Director of Vino Locale Restaurant, Urla

On the other hand the responsibility of promoting and supporting local wines and especially indigenous grape varieties falls on the shoulders of sommeliers in Türkiye. They should be great storytellers to wake up curiosity and encourage guests, especially the foreign ones, to discover local wines.

This panel moderator, Ayça Çiğdem Budak, is the director of IWSA, Turkey’s most prestigious wine school, which is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year. Ayça also is the person with whom my Wine Education journey began - she was my first wine educator and WSET in Wines Level 1-3 I took in IWSA. So great memories! This school is the part of huge holding so they have the opportunity to support wine sector with proper education.

One more fight to follow is the rescue from demolition of Türkiye’s indigenous old vines capable of producing quality wines even despite climate extremes.

The most respected wine experts of Türkiye unite to protect local vines: presentation of Heritage Vines of Türkiye by Levon Bağış, Umay Çeviker, Sabiha Apaydın and Gözdem Gürbüzatik

A lot of them are uprooted and demolished without understanding their true value. Thanks to a few vine knights, some old vines are still alive and you can even try the wine they produce: just ask for old vines wine by Turkish producers.

Indigenous Turkish grape varieties used for vinification recently

One more research with impressive results: the genetic tests conducted with the aim to fill the gaps in pedigree of Turkish grapes and find out the possible relations with international grapes, better understand the origins lead to some surprises.

Assoc. Prof. Hande Tahmaz Karaman and Umay Çeviker share the results of comparisons of Turkish local grapes with genetic databases from around the world

Indigenous local grape Öküzgözü turned out to have 93% of identical genes with … Petit Syrah grape! 

The question is: who is who’s father now… :))) The research goes on together with Montpelier institute. On Turkish side it is conducted by Assoc. Prof. Hande Tahmaz Karaman who started her academic career in 2007 at the Department of Horticulture, Faculty of Agriculture, Ankara University. She continues her specialization in viticulture and vinification techniques in the same department. On June 9th, she had a conversation with Umay Çeviker about the DNA profile of grapes, comparisons of our local grapes with genetic databases from around the world, and the continuation of these studies. I am very excited to hear more results soon!

Yiannis Paraskevopoulos PhD on Santorini terroir and Assyrtiko grape variety characteristics

Very inspiring presentation was done by Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, PhD from Gaia Wines Winery on Santorini terroir and Assyrtiko grape variety characteristics.

The Santorini vineyard may be the oldest vineyard on the planet that has been cultivated without interruption since at least the 16th century BC, without having been replanted or restructured.

Great to see our neighbors conducting such a successful promotion for this Greek grape.

As a bonus it was great to see the test results confirming the different profiles of the same wine after aging in cellar and underwater aging.

Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, PhD from Gaia Wines Winery shares the tests results of the same wine profiles after underwater and cellar aging

I had a chance to try underwater aged wines in London during my IWC judging and internship - they do taste differently. Great to see some scientific test results confirming my taste buds conclusions. :))

Once again, huge thanks to all the organizers and participants of the event. In recent conditions in Türkiye every event dedicated to local vines and grapes and their products are vital for the sphere to survive. Thanks a lot and looking forward for the 4th conference next year!

Huge thanks to the crew of Root Origin Soil III Conference on Anatolian Heritage Vines

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